The history of Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort is related to Rao Jodha, the fifteenth Rathore ruler in 1458, residing in the virtually decrepit palace in Mandore. In that era, all men were busy fighting battles, and came home only for short periods, insufficient to look after their mansions, houses or ‘jhopdis’(huts). One year after accession, Jodha was advised to move his capital to a safer place as the thousand year old Mandore fort had started to crumble. This led to the taking over of the Marwari ruler’s small fort, which then served as the foundation of the massive Mehrangarh Fort.

Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur is one of the largest and most impressive forts in India and amongst the list of most popular tourist places in India. It is situated atop a 130 m high hill. The Mehrangarh Fort can be reached from the city, 5 km below, working your way up a winding, spiralling circular road.

One has to cross seven gates to reach the fort. Just before you reach the first gate, you come across a reworked Chowkelao Garden. After 200 years of neglect, this garden has been restored, replete with the scents and sounds of an eighteenth century Marwari garden. Open to the public, this beautiful terraced garden is best seen at night, when the Mehtab Bagh (moonlight garden) in the lower terrace grows redolent with the white flowers of chandni (Tabernaemontana coronaria) and the soft and sweet smelling kamini (Maurya exotia). Chowkelao Garden today houses a restaurant in the uppermost terrace, with a memorable view of the garden and the city of Jodhpur.

The gates still bear the marks of the various battles fought in the bygone era. The second gate stands mute witness to cannon ball hits by attacking armies of Jaipur during wars, and are maintained to display these marks as proof of its invincibility. Two of these gates are symbols of victory. Jayapol (victory gate) was built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories over Jaipur and Bikaner armies; Fattehpol, again meaning victory gate, was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh in celebration of the defeat of the Mughals.

Entry brings you to a large courtyard, which could accommodate the entire army that resided within the fort. As you wend your way upwards, the road narrows and the houses show neatly sculptured windows that looked down the slope. The decorative slits were meant for sniper arrows shot at the hapless enemy trying to climb the slope. Around the halfway mark, only two horses could travel side by side. Diehards would be skewered by spears. The throne was thus unreachable.
The record of Mehrangarh fort bears no mention of capture simply because it was never captured. The invincible fortifications are as much as six meters thick and no battering ram could breach it. Like the gates, cannon marks once withstood by some of the walls are kept preserved for the same reason. Today this magnificent Jodhpur fort is testimony that recollects the stories and legends of Jodhpur's tumultuous, but fascinating past.

Other attractions of Mehrangarh Fort include several palaces inside the fort, with their huge sprawling courtyards and gardens now gone to seed. One of the fort's palaces, The Moti Mahal or the Pearl Palace, has the royal throne of Jodhpur, the Sringar Chowki. The fort also has galleries, temples, etc.

Highlights within the palace include: Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Hall),Chamunda Mataji Temple, Phool Mahal (Flower Hall)- the most colourful and musical of them all. This was the Maharaja's personal treasure trove, his pleasure chamber for dancing girls, orgies and revelry; Zenana Deodi, the sanctum sanctorum of the palace, guarded by eunuchs, is where the Maharaja's official wives whiled away their time. Mehrangarh Fort is rocky proof of the assiduous nature and skill of the Jodhpuri sculptors.

Mehrangarh Fort Gallery: One of the attractions of the Fort is the Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort gallery. It showcases the following:

• Elephant's Howdahs: The "Elephant Howdah" is a type of twin-compartment wooden seat fastened on to the back of an elephant, similar to saddling a horse. The front compartment had a raised protective armoured sheet for royalty or Generals. The rear compartment was for a reliable bodyguard cum mahout.

• Palanquins: The Palanquin was the standard mode of travel for the ladies of the nobility, till Indian independence. An occupant of this specially crafted hand-lifted carriage could travel supine and unseen, hidden by muslin screens on all sides. On certain occasions, the royals and male nobles also made use of them.

• Daulat Khana (Treasures Of Mehrangarh Museum): The best examples of arms, textiles, decorative arts, paintings, manuscripts, etc., are displayed in this gallery.

• Other sights include parts of the armoury, paintings, the Turban Gallery, etc.

(c) 2010 Abiyoyo SL